Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently shaped its heart: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to discover these tales and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
